DIRTY ANCHOR® – SHIELD KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

SECTION 1 — INTRODUCTION

Congratulations on choosing the Dirty Anchor® Shield Kit — the marine protection system engineered for boat owners who expect everything to shine like their boat, from their Dock Box to their Jet Ski to their Trailers for years to come!

This isn’t wax.
It’s not “marine polish.”

It certainly is not a retail store “Spray Ceramic Coating”!
It’s a high-bond marine ceramic and graphene coating system designed to lock in shine, repel water and grime, and protect from UV and oxidation, for years — not weeks or months.

This manual will walk you through the exact application process required to achieve the premium results this product was built for. Read through everything before you start. Once the coating cures, whatever is under it, stays under it. That means:

How your boat looks today is how it will look for the next several years.

If you prep correctly and follow this guide, you’ll achieve:

  • A deep, glossy, hydrophobic finish
  • UV, chemical, and salt protection
  • Reduced maintenance and faster washdowns
  • Long-term surface preservation
  • A finish other captains will envy

SECTION 2 — WHAT’S IN THE BOX

Your Dirty Anchor® Shield Kit includes:

Item Purpose
Dirty Anchor® – Shield Marine Graphene Graphene Coating that increases slickness, durability, and hydrophobic properties along with Protection against Oxidation and Abrasion. Sized for smaller projects
Dirty Anchor® – Prep A Strong cleaner that prepares your surfaces for proper bonding of the ceramic coating by removing all oils and residue
Applicator Block & Wooden Dowel The tool that holds your microfiber wrap for controlled coating passes
Grey Microfiber Applicator Cloth The cloth that wraps the applicator block for applying coatings
White Microfiber Towels Used for surface prep and wiping excess coating during flash-off
Protective Gloves Required PPE to prevent skin contact with coating chemistry

SECTION 3 — SAFETY & PPE

Ceramic and Graphene coatings are reactive resins — treat them with respect.

Required:

  • Nitrile or latex gloves (provided)
  • Eye protection (not included)
  • Adequate ventilation — no enclosed cabins or sealed garages
  • Keep away from flames or ignition sources
  • Do not ingest or get  near food, pets, or children
  • Do not eat, drink, smoke, or vape while exposed to these products
    Skin contact: remove immediately with soap and water.
    Do NOT get solvents on skin.

SECTION 4 — ENVIRONMENTAL REQUIREMENTS

Ceramic chemistry is sensitive to temperature and humidity, for flawless results:

Parameter Requirement
Surface temperature 50°F–90°F (10°C–32°C)
Ambient humidity Below 80%
Sunlight Do NOT apply in direct sun
Wind / Dust Avoid windy or dusty environments
Dew point rule Surface must be 5°F above dew point
Surface moisture Surface must be dry — no dew or wash film

Failing these can cause:

  • High spots
  • Smearing
  • Rainbow haze that won’t wipe off
  • Adhesion failure
  • Premature curing resulting in a undesired surface finish

Pro Installer Tip:
 If you wouldn’t paint in the current conditions, don’t apply ceramic in them.

SECTION 5 — SURFACE PREPARATION

Your coating will not hide imperfections. It locks them in.

Your boat should:

✔ Be fully washed
✔ Have oxidation removed
✔ Be buffed or polished to your desired finish
✔ Be free of swirl marks, haze, and residue

Then:

  1. Spray Dirty Anchor® Prep directly on the surface.
  2. Wipe dry with a white microfiber towel.
  3. Continue wiping until the towel glides smoothly and leaves no streaks or smears.
  4. Do not touch the surface with bare hands afterward — oils = adhesion failure.

SECTION 6 — APPLYING DIRTY ANCHOR® – Shield Marine Graphene

This is the foundation layer — the chemistry that bonds directly to your gelcoat or paint. Take your time here. Every layer after this only performs as well as this one is applied.

6.1 Prepare the Applicator

  1. Place the grey microfiber applicator cloth flat on a clean, dry surface.
  2. Set the applicator block centered on top of the cloth.
  3. Wrap one side of the cloth over the block and into the groove.
  4. Repeat with the other side so the cloth fully covers the flat surface.
  5. Insert the wooden dowel into the groove to lock the cloth in place.

Pro Installer Insight:
 If the cloth is loose, the product will streak. A tight wrap = controlled passes.

6.2 Charge the Applicator

  1. Shake Dirty Anchor® – Shield Marine Graphene well.
  2. Wearing gloves, tip the bottle and apply a thin, straight line of product across the applicator surface.
  3. Do not soak the applicator. Ceramic coatings are not applied like wax.
  4. Start with a thin line of coating on the applicator, if you are not getting product on the whole working area, you can add more to the applicator.  
  5. You don’t need as much as you think you do.

6.3 Test Area (Highly Recommended)

Before coating large sections, choose a low-visibility area and:

  • Apply the product using the instructions below
  • Observe flashing behavior
  • Wipe away excess and flash material and verify finish

If something looks wrong here, it will look wrong everywhere else.

6.4 Apply the Coating

  1. Work in 2 ft x 2 ft sections — do not get ambitious.
  2. Using light pressure, apply in a cross-hatch pattern:

      Left → Right

          Then

       Up ↑ Down ↓

This ensures complete and even coverage.

  1. Continue until the applied coating is evenly spread across the working area and/or the applicator feels slightly grabby—this indicates bonding has begun.

6.5 Don’t Chase Perfection

You should not:

❌ Flood the surface
❌ Go back over areas repeatedly
❌ Try to make it look “finished” at this stage

Ceramic coatings are not buffed-in products. Their final appearance forms after flashing and wipe-off.

In the event that the product flashes before you get the area free of streaks and high spots, you have approximately 15 min to rework the area by reapplying the product to the working area and “reflowing” the past application.

If this happens more than once, evaluate your environment and perhaps return when the conditions are more favorable for application.

SECTION 7 — IDENTIFYING THE FLASH

This is the single most misunderstood part of ceramic coating installation. When the chemistry separates and bonds to the surface, you’ll see:

  • A rainbow sheen, like oil on water
  • Small, beaded micro-droplets forming
  • A soft, colorful shimmer under light

This means the solvents have evaporated, and the resin is anchoring.

Flash Time Range:

Conditions Flash Time
Hot / Dry 45–60 seconds
Mild 1–2 minutes
Cool / Humid 2+ minutes

NEVER WAIT BEYOND FLASH POINT

If you let the coating fully dry, it becomes difficult — sometimes impossible — to remove high spots without polishing.

In the event that this happens, don’t worry, it happens to everyone at some point, simply add more coating to your applicator and reapply in this area within 15 minutes.  

7.1 The Wipe-Off

Use a clean, white microfiber towel, and:

  1. Wipe lightly, do not press hard
  2. Turn the towel often
  3. Continue wiping until the surface looks uniform and streak-free

Acceptance Standard:
 If you can see streaks, smears, or haze from an angle — keep wiping.

SECTION 8 — DIRTY ANCHOR® – BOOST Kit (OPTIONAL)

Boost is your seasonal victory lap.

You apply it:

  • After the coatings have cured
  • Each spring before launch
  • After cleaning the surface with Dirty Anchor® – Prep

Boost revitalizes:

  • Hydrophobic top layer
  • Gloss and optical depth
  • Contaminant resistance

It does not replace the ceramic system. It feeds it. Over time, soaps and cleaners will build up of the surface if they remain there for a long time and “clog up” the ceramic coatings.  This step clears that out and adds an additional layer of protection to your boat.

SECTION 9 — TROUBLESHOOTING MATRIX

Symptom Cause Correction
Streaks / Lines Over-application Reapply small amount, wipe evenly
Sticky Wipe Waited too long to wipe Light reapplication reactivates
Rainbow haze remains High-spot flash neglected Spot reapplication + wipe
Applicator dragging early Dry cloth / low product Add small product line
Coating looks dull Poor prep Polish + re-prep + reapply

SECTION 10 — BEST PRACTICES / FAQ

How soon can I get the boat wet?
 24–48 hours minimum. Longer is safer and will be fully cured in 5 - 7 days, but is ok to have some water contact after 24 to 48 hours.

Can I wax over ceramic?
 No. There is no need for wax when you have ceramic. Wax blocks the surface and defeats the chemistry.

Can I touch the surface?
 Not until cure time is complete — oils = adhesion failure.

When will it look its best?
 After full cure — typically 5–7 days.

What can I do to care for the coatings?
 You can use a wax free soap with a very soft brush head or cloth to wash your boat as needed.  Most of the time, spraying the surface with a hose or power washer will clean the surface.

What areas do I coat and what areas should I avoid coating?
 Coat all smooth shiny surfaces.  AVOID coating the textured surfaces and surfaces that are meant to be walked on, i.e. Gunwale / Gunnel, swim platform, etc…!  The coated surfaces are EXTREMELY slippery and dangerous when wet!!!

SECTION 11 — COMPLETION STATEMENT

You’ve just installed one of the most advanced marine coatings systems available. Your vessel is now protected by a system that bonds at a molecular level and stands guard against UV, salt, stains, and the judgment of jealous dock neighbors.

Welcome to the Dirty Anchor® Crew.